It is almost as far as you can go southwest and still be in Europe - without dropping off the edge, into the Atlantic Ocean. At the very periphery of Europe, Lisbon is often strangely overlooked by aficionados who pontificate on the virtues of the best European cities. True, it does not have the iconic landmarks; many dismiss its cuisine and wine as lower tier; and, largely as a consequence, it is not perceived as having the pizzazz of Paris, Rome or Berlin.
Well, all I say to that is, oh happy days! I first came to Lisbon in 1975 and have been getting back whenever I could ever since. Of all the joys of this amazing town, one of the most pleasant is the remarkable dearth of tourists. Though, I'll concede, having the almost perfect climate ain't too shabby, either.
It is the most crime-free capital city in Europe. And that only further heightens its pleasure as one of the great walker's towns. And this is despite the winding, hilly streets, with their constantly, unexpected, stunning sea vistas around every next corner.
The food may not be as famous as Greek, Italian or French, but it is delicious. And if you love sea food you'll be in heaven. And don't underestimate the wine. For some reason the standard exported fare isn't so great. The wine in Portugal, though, is a delight. The coffee is fantastic, too. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
It has all that old Europe stuff: cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and great architecture. And, if you want to hit the beach, a short trip south takes you to Costa da Caparica: 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches, served by a cute little railway, running their length. It'll drop you off at which ever beach you'd like. (In summer, I'd suggest making the trip on week days.)
But, while Lisbon is certainly a wonderful place to visit, I especially urge it upon those who can manage longer stays. The professional sabbatical, the longer vacation when you're inspired to stay put and get to know the rhythms of a place, an ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel, when you need an inspirational respite, I'd say go to Lisbon.
And you can't beat it for price. Compared to the rest of Europe, Lisbon is a real deal. Certainly it is more expensive than it was back in the 1970s, but in equivalent dollars less than you might think.
Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.
Top of the list, for me personally, is Alfama. It is the settlement legacy of the original fishing village that grew into Lisbon. That village sensibility still animates the place, with its charming, winding medieval streets. You always have stately Saint George's Castle looming behind you and constantly catch stunning views over the aquamarine sea. The housing stock is a bit on the rundown side, there's no denying that. On the other hand, more and more lovely renovated apartments are coming onto the market. The place to get these at the most modest prices is certainly Alfama.
If you're a partier and or a general purpose bohemian, Bairro Alto is likely the spot for you. It's packed full of characters with character, loads of popular restaurants, wine bars, dance clubs and all manner of night life. It's an exciting place to be and an exciting place to live, if it's your speed. If though you need quiet to sleep, it may not be the right choice. If you like the vibe of the place, though, you might try the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods down the hill a ways: the same feel, but less hectic.
Somewhat further north, a bit away from the action, is Principe Real. Formerly known as the antiques and gay part of town, this area has been rapidly turning into a hip locale for young professionals. The rental prices are higher, but it is very tranquil and packed with lush gardens and charming mansions.
Again, the prices can be a bit high, but a great little out of the way spot is Santos. Located right along the riverside, it has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. Otherwise, it is a peaceful residential area with good quality housing.
So, whatever your preferences, the wild or the sedate, there are some options to suit your taste. Rest assured, whatever your preference, Lisbon has it. So, if you have the chance, don't miss your chance to experience what remains among the most affordable treasures among the best European cities.
Well, all I say to that is, oh happy days! I first came to Lisbon in 1975 and have been getting back whenever I could ever since. Of all the joys of this amazing town, one of the most pleasant is the remarkable dearth of tourists. Though, I'll concede, having the almost perfect climate ain't too shabby, either.
It is the most crime-free capital city in Europe. And that only further heightens its pleasure as one of the great walker's towns. And this is despite the winding, hilly streets, with their constantly, unexpected, stunning sea vistas around every next corner.
The food may not be as famous as Greek, Italian or French, but it is delicious. And if you love sea food you'll be in heaven. And don't underestimate the wine. For some reason the standard exported fare isn't so great. The wine in Portugal, though, is a delight. The coffee is fantastic, too. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
It has all that old Europe stuff: cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and great architecture. And, if you want to hit the beach, a short trip south takes you to Costa da Caparica: 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches, served by a cute little railway, running their length. It'll drop you off at which ever beach you'd like. (In summer, I'd suggest making the trip on week days.)
But, while Lisbon is certainly a wonderful place to visit, I especially urge it upon those who can manage longer stays. The professional sabbatical, the longer vacation when you're inspired to stay put and get to know the rhythms of a place, an ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel, when you need an inspirational respite, I'd say go to Lisbon.
And you can't beat it for price. Compared to the rest of Europe, Lisbon is a real deal. Certainly it is more expensive than it was back in the 1970s, but in equivalent dollars less than you might think.
Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.
Top of the list, for me personally, is Alfama. It is the settlement legacy of the original fishing village that grew into Lisbon. That village sensibility still animates the place, with its charming, winding medieval streets. You always have stately Saint George's Castle looming behind you and constantly catch stunning views over the aquamarine sea. The housing stock is a bit on the rundown side, there's no denying that. On the other hand, more and more lovely renovated apartments are coming onto the market. The place to get these at the most modest prices is certainly Alfama.
If you're a partier and or a general purpose bohemian, Bairro Alto is likely the spot for you. It's packed full of characters with character, loads of popular restaurants, wine bars, dance clubs and all manner of night life. It's an exciting place to be and an exciting place to live, if it's your speed. If though you need quiet to sleep, it may not be the right choice. If you like the vibe of the place, though, you might try the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods down the hill a ways: the same feel, but less hectic.
Somewhat further north, a bit away from the action, is Principe Real. Formerly known as the antiques and gay part of town, this area has been rapidly turning into a hip locale for young professionals. The rental prices are higher, but it is very tranquil and packed with lush gardens and charming mansions.
Again, the prices can be a bit high, but a great little out of the way spot is Santos. Located right along the riverside, it has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. Otherwise, it is a peaceful residential area with good quality housing.
So, whatever your preferences, the wild or the sedate, there are some options to suit your taste. Rest assured, whatever your preference, Lisbon has it. So, if you have the chance, don't miss your chance to experience what remains among the most affordable treasures among the best European cities.
About the Author:
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